Popping baits up for pike.
Duncan Charman – The thinking angler.
Written for German magazine in
2013.
The more I think
about presenting a deadbait to a pike the more I think about
popped-up or critically balanced baits. Small jack pike feed
primarily on small live fish; their aerodynamic body shape, large
fins and mouth are designed perfectly for this. However as they grow
bigger they become slower and have to adapt at picking up dead or
dying fish directly of the bottom. Although they can do this, it’s
probably not the simplest task, so if an angler can help make this
easier, surely it has to be advantageous. Another reason for learning
how to produce a slow sinking or popped-up bait is when the angler is
faced with weed in a lake or needs to present a bait over a silty,
soft bottom. Obviously casting a standard frozen deadbait out into a
weedy lake using a standard running ledger rig will only see the bait
being pulled into the weed, masked and completely out of sight and
inaccessible to a hungry pike, so rigs need to be looked at here,
ones that will allow the bait to sink and rest on top of it.
Before looking at critically balanced
deadbaits (something I will cover in a follow up article), lets run
through the easier task of presenting a popped-up bait. Most anglers
achieve this by simply using foam poppers which lifts the bait
directly above the lead. This method certainly works and produced my
personal best pike weighing 31lb 10oz many years ago, yet this came
from an un-pressured lake and had probably never been caught before.
The reason I decided to pop-up my baits on this venue was because
every evening a shoal of small fish would move through a channel
between two lakes, returning around midnight. What I wanted to do was
try a mimic one of these fish and after thinking carefully about my
rigs, changed from a standard bottom bait to a pop-up, a decision
that was to see my catch rate go through the roof! Don’t get me
wrong, I’m not obsessed with popped-up baits; they seem to work
better on some lakes than other, so when approaching a new venue I
will always start with a bottom bait, one that sinks slowly along
with one popped-up, either a few inches or directly of the lead. Once
I know what the pike prefer then both rods will be swapped over so
they are both fishing the most effective method. My problem with
placing big bright foam poppers next to a deadbait, especially on
pressured water where pike have seen it all, is how it looks. Some
anglers add a couple of bait savers, even a few brightly coloured
beads and before you know it the fish looks more like a Christmas
tree than a deadbait! On these waters I prefer to place a buoyant
balsa stick within the fish, however most venues you will see an
upturn in your catch rate just by using a visual red popper. A couple
of bait savers probably work in the anglers favour as they make a sea
deadbait look more like a natural fish, such as a roach, yet if I’m
allowed then a roach deadbait will be my preferred bait when using a
pop-up.
Presenting a
pop-up is relatively easy on a clean, hard bottom and a simple
running lead will do, however instead of placing the lead directly on
the main line, I tie this onto a short length of 10lb mono which has
a run-ring attached. There are a number of reasons why I do this, one
is if the lead becomes snagged then the mono will break instead of my
40lb braided mainline, releasing the rig and avoiding leaving a
baited rig in the water. Another is I rarely fish over a hard bottom
like gravel as these areas are cold in the winter; hold very little,
if any food for fry, so I see no reason why a pike should be in these
areas. Areas of silt, bloodworm beds, dead weed or leaves creates
cover not just for the pike but fry, offering food for both, yet a
lead directly on the mainline will sink into this causing a loss in
resistance, something that a pike will notice and if so probably drop
the bait. Using a short link will allow the lead to sink into
whatever the bottom is made up off, leaving the rig resistance free.
If I’m fishing over dead or dying weed I try to find out just how
far of the bottom this grows. If I feel it’s around two-feet then
the length of mono between lead and run-ring will be lengthened to
two-feet. A word of warning here is when casting, watch the rig in
the air and just before it hits the surface, feather the line. This
will throw the bait out in front of the lead and avoid the rig
tangling.
The great thing about using popped-up
baits is runs are usually, what I call ‘short screamers’. The
reason for this is when a pike finds the bait it will stealthily
approach it, then using its body shape and explosive acceleration
produced from its tail hit the bait hard as it thinks the bait is
alive. I see very little advantage using drop of indicators when
fishing baits popped-up and prefer to use carp style bobbins, simply
tightening up to the rig, dropping the rod tips down under the water
and as close to the bottom as possible before slackening the
baitrunners right off. Runs will see a few yards of line ripping from
the spool, usually followed by the line going slack. This is when the
pike has the bait in its mouth and has stopped to swallow it, so
quickly wind down until the fish is felt and strike.
Moving on to a more technical rig is
the ‘Hinge-Rig’ which presents the bait a few inches of bottom,
right in the eye line of a pike. It’s a rig that is producing some
fantastic results for me at the moment but does take some getting use
too. The photo shows the components to this rig but basically a
swivel splits the wire trace creating a hinge effect. Onto the swivel
tungsten putty is moulded so it slowly sinks the bait, leaving it to
sit just of bottom. It’s a fantastic rig, especially on pressured
waters where the pike have seen it all. Very, if any angler will be
using this and it’s a rig that gives me an edge over others.
Another very important point that I
would like to point out is the use of braid as a mainline. I have to
admit, in the past I’ve never been a great lover of braid but since
converting to it during my eel fishing, have bought it into my pike
fishing and can’t see me ever reverting back to mono. The benefits
of braid is not just being able to spot bites much quicker, due to
its lack of stretch, but when a pick up occurs, a short sharp strike
will see the bait being struck off and the hooks being set. If you’re
suffering from missed runs or pike shedding the hooks during a fight,
then it might be time you tried braid, yet before doing so make sure
you know how to tie a Grinner or Palomar Knot as a standard Six Turn
Blood Knot will let you down. A quick look on the internet will give
you a step-by-step visual demonstration of how to tie these.
Next time I will be looking at
Slow-Sinking or Critically Balance baits, far fiddlier, far more
technical, but without a doubt well worth the effort.
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